Home Boat Building Build a Tryst 10 Trimaran Sailboat

Build a Tryst 10 Trimaran Sailboat

In this series I am planning to build a 10ft sailing trimaran from plans. The boat is a Tryst 10 which is a Duo 10 with two additional hulls. The boat is designed by Richard Woods Designs in Cornwall, and I will give you a link to his plans below. I will take you through the whole build process and provide video and photographs throughout. Click here for full playlist

This is part 22, the final video. Scroll down to see the full build in this series. 

Tryst 10 Trimaran plywood pieces
Three biggest pieces cut out

In the second video I mark out the chine curve of one side from reference points and cut it with a jigsaw. After fairing with a block plane I use that side to to mark the other side. That is also cut and faired against the first one. I then then proceed to cut the bottom that I marked out earlier in part one. I also fair that on both sides with the block plane.

Below is the third episode of the build. In this part I cut out the extension of the sides and the bottom. I also cut the transom and the bulkhead thwarts. 

Here in Part 4, we start by machining 20mm x 20mm pine for the gunwales and other major part. We frame the transom and other thwarts. We then make the inner stem from mahogany.

In part 5 below, we tie the main pieces of the boat together with copper wire. The boat is really taking shape now. Before wiring, we screw on the transom and thwart aft bulkhead with stainless steel screws 

After the hull is tied up we align it and glue in the transom, aft bulkhead, and inner stem. We then cut the 200g cloth diagonally in 55mm strips, because we cannot obtain fiberglass tape here. The video finishes as we mix the epoxy and start to fiberglass the inside of the chines

Below is part 7. We turn the hull upside down and prepare the keel chines for glassing. We also cut and fix the hardwood outer stem.

We are now up to part 8, below. I shape the stem into the hull sides. I then go on to coat the whole outer hull in epoxy, and immediately follow up with fiberglass tape on chines, stem and butt joints. I leave to semi dry for about 5 hours, before adding the second layer of fiberglass over the first. 

Here in part 9 we install the keel strips and then fare the outside chines with two coats of fine epoxy filler. We then make a skeg and fit it to the keel. After it dries, we cover in two coats of fiber glass. 

In part 10 below we explain about put extra epoxy on the outside of the hull. It is piping hot in the workshop, the outside of the hull is sealed, so now is the time to take it to the water. Of course 

3girls (her name) is back in the workshop now. In episode 11 (below), I cut out the slot for the dagger board with my jigsaw. I then build the parts for the dagger board case, before coating them in epoxy.  I then proceed to fit the outer gunwales. These are screwed and glued in place using countersunk stainless steel screws and epoxy mixed with Cab-O-Sil anti sag fumed silica powder.